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Getting a dog ready for its first real journey: eight steps

Eight steps spread over three weeks. The second explains why most dogs are sick in the car when there is nothing wrong with their health.

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A dog that has never spent more than twenty minutes in a car is not ready for six hours of motorway, and the gap cannot be closed on the day of departure. What follows takes three weeks.

1. Get the dog into a stationary car, several times

This is the step everyone skips. A dog whose only experience of the car is the trip to the vet associates the vehicle with something unpleasant, and that association comes before everything else.

Three or four sessions of climbing in without starting the engine, door open and nothing else happening, are enough to undo that association in a week.

2. Understand that travel sickness comes from the ear, not the stomach

A dog that drools, shakes and is sick in the car is most often caught in a conflict between what its inner ear registers and what its eyes see — the same mechanism as in humans.

The practical consequence changes everything: positioning it so that it can see outside towards the front reduces the conflict, whereas travelling blind in a closed boot makes it worse.

3. Lengthen the journeys in stages, not all at once

Five minutes, then fifteen, then forty, with something pleasant at the other end. The order matters: if the first long journey ends at the vet, all the earlier work is cancelled out.

Three weeks is enough for most adult dogs. In a puppy, the socialisation window makes the learning far quicker.

4. Choose an enclosed space rather than a large one

A dog that whines when the door closes usually lacks familiar reference points, not room. A crate sized to the dog — it should be able to turn round and lie down, no more — is more reassuring than a whole back seat.

Safety demands the same thing: an unrestrained animal becomes a projectile when the car brakes, for itself as much as for the passengers.

5. Don't fast the dog, shift the meal

Complete fasting before a long journey is a widespread practice and a questionable one: a dog on an empty stomach can feel nauseous from the emptiness itself, and a puppy should not go without food for long.

A light meal three hours before departure gives better results than an empty stomach, and far better ones than a meal eaten just before setting off.

6. Take the usual bedding, and never a new one

Smell is what makes an unfamiliar place bearable. New bedding, washed and carrying no familiar scent, brings none of what the dog is looking for.

That is why you are better off leaving with the worn bed from the living room than with the one bought for the occasion — even if the new one looks better.

7. Scout the stops in advance, not at the moment you need one

A stop every two hours, in a rest area where the dog can walk safely, completely changes a long journey. Improvising leads to pulling over onto the hard shoulder, which is dangerous and illegal.

For the destination, the question comes up earlier: does the place genuinely take dogs, and on what terms. Directories exist — places to stay that accept dogs are listed there by type, which saves calling twenty establishments.

8. Plan the return, not just the outward leg

A dog worn out by several days in a new environment copes worse with the journey home than with the journey out. That is the opposite of what people assume.

Allowing one quiet day before taking to the road again, and one quiet day after arriving, prevents most of the digestive upsets wrongly blamed on the local food.

What can be prepared for, and what cannot

The eight steps above cover what is within your control. What is not — a dog with a vestibular disorder, severe anxiety, or a history of a transport accident — calls for veterinary support, and no amount of preparation at home replaces it.

The sign that should send you to a vet rather than keep you persevering: a dog that, after three weeks of graded stages, still reacts the same way in the first metre.